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Great video, here's my opinion There were little differences here and there, but Im pretty sure a little turn of the bass knob would make a much bigger difference than buying a new expensive guitar. Besides, if every wood sounds unique, then why buy the more expensive ones? Also, now im interested in why jim lill had no difference in his video. I wonder whether you or him made some mistakes. Either way, im not buying an ultra-expensive guitar while i can get another that sounds the same for much much cheaper.

Do I have To Use a Heat Gun or will that ruin the guitar ?

Interesting. For straight string pulls, where do you plan the location of each tuner peg in relation to the peg's string line? - Put the centerline of the peg on the string line? - Put the tighten edge of the peg (during righty-tight tuner turns of the tuner knob) on the peg's string line? - Or some other placement of the tuner peg in relation to the string line? Do you need to account for the diameter widening as the more of the string wraps around the peg? During design, what diameter do you use for the peg (not the hole to be drilled) in order to properly place the machine head in relation to its string line?

so much work!

I sometimes use an Amplug3 headphone amp into a 10W or 60W powered speaker for playing small venues or jam sessions. Don't knock extreme portability - when you start getting old - and lugging a nice valve combo around becomes more than stupid. PS - great guitar!

Those are pretty good tools, where did you go to do the woodworking? Is it like a community place?

Hi man, So after the paint you apply clear coat (is it okay if its just clear paint ? ) then after sanding you apply satin clear coat ? I’m a little confused. Please help.

Excellent video... going to do rosewood fretboards on all 3 of my basses

So I just got home from Walmart with a sander and have started sanding the back of my telecaster and it's looking great so far 👍🏼

Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video! It was exactly what i needed to install my fishman's in my parts caster. Your step by step and your diagrams are awesome!

You're not supposed to use an hammer, that's why you've destroyed the fretboard. You're just have to slide slowly the spatula.

Muy Buena

Fierro de Guitarra!!!

Hermosa Guitarra

Eres un excelente Luthier Constructor, pude observar como saben trabajar tus manos.Deberias mostrar mas tus construcciones.Desde ya muchas gracias y muy bueno tu trabajo.

Gracias por tu tutorial

Good brother!!!

Thanks for this! I don't know why but light colored fretboards (that aren't maple) annoy me. Like Indian Laurel. When you played the guitar later, did it stain your fingers at all?

Hi, nice info about staining. Looks very good. What is exactly the drying time before a second layer...?

Either you were pushing the body blank through too fast, of that bandsaw REALLY needs a new blade 😋 Same with the belt sander on the headstock 😋😋 Or was that burns from the bandsaw doing the rough shaping? I didn't notice at the reveals, that you'e also an afficionado of having the strap button on the back-side of the upper horn, father than on the tip of it. Is the nut still from your Grandad's stash of brass that you inherited? Was it much easier making 2 guitars simultaneously? Mind you - you always seem to have multiple builds on the go at any one time anyways.

awesome building montage

ruclips.net/video/n02tImce3AE/видео.htmlfeature=shared This should clear things up for people.

Thanks

I have a bit to learn about guitar repair/building. My son's bass guitar was a right handed bass but he's left handed so I made a copy of the body, but in a left handed mirror image. It was a cheap bass but it looked & played great. Then I was given an Ovation Balladeer that had the spruce top destroyed, so I made a carbon fiber top for it. I tried to get the bridge in the same place, but I didn't know about scale length, so I didnt' measure. It plays okay, but it does not play nearly as nice as it did before the spruce top was broken. Nice job on that guitar. I love building things.

Here's the thing no one really talks about. If "tonewood" is a thing, and wood affects the tone of a guitar then...wait for it...ALL wood is "tonewood". You can't say that wood affects the tone of a guitar and then claim that only certain woods effect the tone of the guitar. Either wood affects the tone or it doesn't. But that's what tonewood afficianatos claim, that only certain woods are "tonewood". That in itself creates the mythical quality to the term tonewood. Not only that, you can't predict it. Tone can be different in the same species of wood from tree to tree and region to region. My guess is, the "tone" impact from wood is simply due to the different density of wood.

initial tone test = out of tune. 😖 Fishman sounds cleaner tone.

Pass

Excellent video! I’m a big believer of sanding, the heat gun is nuts. 👏👏👏

No relief cuts is wild

It looks decent. Not so sure on the longevity of the neck & fretboard. Nice build. Novo use Pine on their $4000+ guitars, only on the bodies I believe.

are plywood body guitars like vester stage strat good

Looks like it was a great show, and a great showing for IP guitars. Bet it must have felt good to have many people pick up and play your guitars - cold and with no foreknowledge - and liking them. Who was the maker at approx 5 mins into the video? (setup section) The shapes are familiar or at least reminiscent of Uquendor or Orbital guitars.

Thanks man.

Where’d you get a periphery coffee mug… I want one

Testing tonewood under high gain is pointless. Distortion, by definition, changes the signlal. The clean test is all you need in my opinion. There was clearly a difference between them in your clean test, and I believe it was an extremely fair and well performed test. In my humble opinion however, it's also fair to include in the debate, the physical resonance of the wood that allows vibration you can feel in your hands and against your body. That kind of connection to your instrument is going to influence your tone as well. It might effect the way you set your amp or the kind of music you decide to play. A dense low resonance guitar with tons of paint and clear, and super hot humbuckers, might be fine for metal all day long, but chances are it won't Inspire you to turn off the gain and enjoy the warm natural sounds of the Instrument. But if you pick up a sweet super resonant semi hollow, for example, your probably not going to rush right Into a Slayer medley! Why is the way a guitar vibrates in your hands, of such little importance In the Tonewood debate. As a player who will probably never record seriously, and may only perform to 20 or 30 people in my life, I don't really care how my guitars sound In the mix. And as a player who spends plenty of time playing unplugged as my family watches a movie or plays a game, the way my guitars feel is of almost ultimate importance to me. I suspect that there are thousands and thousands of players like me out there.

Borderlands fan. Nice.

I tried the purple model, it felt really good! 🤩👌

LET'S GOOOOOO!

What a journey that was indeed! Such a great way to bring IP Guitars out to the public to try out for the first time. I had a total blast❤️

I have a classical guitar which are more delicate and I'm worried that so much heat could cause issues. Since I would like to completely replace the fretboard with a new one, would it be safer to plane or sand off the fretboard so that no heat is involved ?

I would just mask off the dots. I'd pull my hair out trying to scrape all those.

I love your PPE😊

Thanks for the video! Please consider a noise gate next time!

I think change of musician would produce more of a differnce than I could pick up (no pun..), at least when listening from the PC speakers. I'm a shitty bass player and I change tone quite a lot by changing where, and how, I play. Two guys I was playing with, some years ago, had the same gear, Strat and Vox pedal board. One of them complained about not getting a good sound. The other guy decided to help out. Before doing anything he played a few chords and some lead stuff. Sounded amazing.. In a series of program some years ago here in Sweden a group of proffesional musicians were put to the thest of spotting the cheap instrument when the same (skilled) musician played the same peace of music behind a curtain. For instance a real Stradivarius was compared with a "school violin.".Stradivarius costing a gazzillion and the school violin about 50 euros. Or a genuin -59 Gibson Les Paul and a cheap copy. The "jury" consisted of really good musicians, classicly trained and with good standing internationally. In a couple of instanses they were embarrased to not being sure of when the "original" and when the cheap copy was being played. In all cases they had a hard time calling out the correct one as being cheap in most test cases. But, of course, the feeling of any expensive equipment is always "priceless". I guess the debate will continue.

I saw the videos of the build, and now this one. I thought of posting a question about the eternal, philosofical, question: Tonewood. Then I saw that the next video comming up is just about that. As a "luthier wanna-be" i very much appreciate all of this. Thnx /Kuno

The problem is that "pine" is often a generic term for common construction lumber...which might actually be any of a dozen or more kinds of actual "pine" or other coniferous wood such as fir, spruce, cedar with varying degrees of hardness. In that regard, spruce or cedar is already the preferred wood for acoustic guitar tops...and strong cypress is preferred for flamenco guitars. (...with backs & sides as thin as 1/8 inch). BTW, since large lumber purveyors store hardware & such goods indoors, but much of the lumber in outdoor racks in the "yard", the most common name for such a place, at least in the USA, is as a "lumber-yard", while the company itself is likely to refer to itself simply as a "lumber company". Southern (USA) Yellow Pine, which is commonly available in Europe....though significantly softer than Maple or Rosewood...is significantly harder than the Alder, Poplar & especially Cottonwood (...Basswood) that solid-body electric guitars are often made of. Plus, for a premium in price (but still less than "hardwood" lumber) construction timber is available in "clear" grade...no knots. And, softwoods, as if done with maple, can be hardened somewhat by "roasting" at close to 400 degrees F for an hour or so. Bamboo is laminated all in one grain direction, unlike normal plywood. So, I don't see why that or SW - "strand woven" bamboo can't be used for fingerboards, as this can have a Janka hardness rating of up to 4000...similar to ebony & more than twice that of rosewood or maple And, it is dimensionally stable at varying temperatures & humidity. You could start with a piece of bamboo flooring, costing a few dollars, that can be planed & sanded to the appropriate radius, with uniform color thru & thru (unlike laminated oak flooring that is really a form of hardwood plywood) and I bet you could create a dense fingerboard to be proud of..

So Happy to see things are picking up for yah; You so deserve it bro! Your such an inspiration and talented luthier... Much regards to yah brother. 🎸🏆

Should you remove the truss rod before doing this? Or does the truss rod need be turned at all before doing this? I want my fretboard to come off in one piece so i can reatttach after doing a neck reset

Everyone has their own opinions, just like I am giving here, BUT your quality is incredible! I'm becoming a huge fan of the Strat(ish) shape with forward movement, like the natural finish appears to be, but would prefer more of a punchy color finish with contrast.

You know that I know next to nothing about what makes a good guitar, but I can say they definitely look exquisite. To my artist's eye, I am digging the shape, the textures, colors... all of it. Looks badass man. Congrats on finally getting to reveal this!😎🎸